My plan today was to do a daytrip to Torbat-e Jam. I took a taxi to the bus terminal where it was a bit hard to work out where to buy the ticket and catch the bus. But I sorted it and as on the 2.5h ride through the barren countryside with the odd patches of green.
From the station there, I took a taxi to the Mausoleum of Ahmad Jani. It had a nice garden with lots of trees. The courtyard had some pistachio trees and the man’s grave sat under one of them. He was a sufi, mystic and poet that lived from 1048 and 1141. Pilgrims that come to pay their respects to the man, kiss the stone fence surrounding the tree and also say prayers.
I couldn’t get into the Kermani Mosque, located within the complex, which is supposed to be quite nice. Overall, the Mausoleum was a nice enough visit from Mashhad but it wasn’t as special as Mahan from my previous visit to Iran.
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- Mausoleum of Ahmad Jani.
- Mausoleum of Ahmad Jani.
- Mausoleum of Ahmad Jani.
It was interesting to note the mix of dress styles here. A number of people had Pakistani-style dresses with rich embroidery rather than the chador.
When I came out from the complex, my sandals were gone. I was a little worried about having to return to Mashhad bare-footed! Some people came round and they had been placed in a bag for safe-keeping by a blind caretaker.
Some kids walked me out to the gate. With no taxis around, a young man offered me a ride on his motorbike to the station, sans helmet. I offered him a drink for his services but he preferred money.
I needed to use the facilities at the station. The toilet cubicles had no doors. No, it’s not like China where they can be door-less and partition-less. They had curtains instead of doors. And as usual in Iran, there were no urinals.
I nearly missed the 1330 bus back to Mashhad, thinking that it was scheduled for 1530. Back in Mashhad around 1600, I had a banana shake and pistachios before relaxing in my room. Oh, the banana shakes here are awesome, made with banana, ice-cream, walnut pieces and ground pistachios.
When the weather cooled a little I walked to Janat Mall. It was buzzing with shoppers and proved good for people-watching. I found what’s supposedly the nicest tea room in Iran. But with no live music at that time, I didn’t stay.
After more people watching, this time in the park, I went in search of dinner. With no live music at the tearoom still, I settled for a quarter chicken with rice at a cheap underground diner, rather than eat at that tearoom.
I treated myself to a banana ice cream shake with walnuts and pistachio powder at a place called Vitamin Sara.
I found Bazar-e Reza near my hotel. The 800m-long covered bazaar is designed to look semi-traditional but is a 20th-century creation. Shops within sell a wide variety of products including turquoise from the nearby region. It was bustling with so many shoppers many of them chador-clad women. It was like a carnival in black.
- At Bazar-e Reza.
- At Bazar-e Reza.