Above: Imam Reza’s shrine takes up quite an expansive area, as you can see from the two photos stitched up above.
I felt shattered today and slept till 0800. I decided to have the day off. I couldn’t handle another day of long bus trips especially if the sights were only so so. I took it easy and had a shave and even moisturised myself as it is very dry in Iran.
I enjoyed another good breakfast inhouse and grazed till 1000 before heading out to look for an internet cafe. I spent about 3h there writing a long email home before doing some general surfing.
Not needing lunch today, I snacked on pistachios and biscuits back at the hotel. Banks here close at 1330 so I changed some money at the hotel. Yesterday, the rate was 2% less than at the airport at the time of my arrival. Today it was 4% less, so I’m thinking the rial has depreciated slightly.
I had dinner on Imam Reza Street at Ali’s Restaurant. I had taken a fancy to the one at Al Qods hotel but it seemed closed for cleaning. The dinner was a little disappointing. The lamb stew with lentils had beautiful flavour but only two pieces of lamb, one of which was nearly all fat. It came garnished with sticks of chips.
Relaxing in my room after dinner, I heard drums and trumpets outside, coming from the direction of the mosque. I quickly changed into long-sleeves and went out.
What a crowd! There was some kind of oration in progress. The area was beautifully lit. I walked around and absorbed the beautiful scene of faith. This could be the closest I’ll ever get to being a fly on the wall in Mecca.
I returned to the hotel to change into less covered-up clothing before giving the Hezardastan Tea House another try. Lucky me, there was live music this time. But it was pretty warm inside. I enjoyed the music with a sharbat (sweet cold drink), a tea and a pastry filled with a flour-based jelly. A vet and his wife struck up a conversation with me; they were very warm and welcoming.
While that was a nice experience, it was a tad expensive. I couldn’t justify another ice cream shake for the road back to the hotel. It was a late night out and I retired around midnight.
I leave Mashhad early tomorrow and I’ve loved my experience here. Hospitality has been awesome. I’m a little sad to leave the city where every one of my moves seemed like a deodorant ad … been offered free accommodation, have my bus fares paid for, offered (and accepted) rides on motorbikes (without helmet) and have been surrounded by people wanting to talk to me!
The only “less than hospitable” treatment I’ve had was an old man (complete with walking stick). He realized that I was using him as a human shield against oncoming traffic while crossing a busy street. Obviously I wasn’t discreet enough. He shouted abusively at me. By the way, traffic and earthquake are the biggest hazards in my mind with Iran.
Here are some more photos of the beautiful Imam Reza Shrine from my room.
Imam Reza Shrine by day.
Imam Reza Shrine by day.