Museum, monument, tomb and palace

3 April 2007

For me, Marrakech is special because of the carnival-like atmosphere of the square at night.  But it does have some brick-and-mortar sights to see.  So, that’s what I did today.

Marrakech Museum

After breakfast on the terrace, I wandered through the souq to the far end where the museum was located.  It had an impressive interior and I thought it would have made a great home for some rich bastard 🙂 

Well it turns out that it was a palace from the 19th Century, known as the Dar Mnebhi Palace.  

In terms of displays, it is an art museum.  It has a collection of  historical books, coins and pottery of various Moroccan cultures eg. Berber, Jewish and Islamic.  For me, the building and architecture was more of a draw than the exhibits.

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Kouba Ba’adyn

Next I went to the Kouba Ba’adyn (also spelt Qubba Ba’adiyyin amongst other ways).

This 10th Century monument/ pavilion is notable for its extraordinary decoration and for being one of the only remnants of Almoravid architecture in Marrakech.

The dome (kouba) shelters a water basin.  The surrounding ruins have features that are related to water:  eg. fountains, cisterns, drainage etc.  These have led to historians concluding that the site had origins as an ablution to the nearby Ben Youssef mosque.  

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Saadi Tombs

After  lunch, I walked to the El Badi Palace.  But I had trouble finding it.  So I went to the Saadi Tombs instead.

These 14th Century tombs are located on the south side of the Kasbah Mosque, inside the royal kasbah (citadel) district of the city. 

The intricate decorations were rather stunning and used two main techniques: carvings and mosaic tiling (zellij).

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El Badi Palace

With some help, I made it to the El Badi Palace.  The walk took me through the mellah (Jewish Quarter). 

The palace itself is largely ruined with various degrees of restoration.  The the courtyard with it’s rectangular pools and gardens seem good as new though.

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Inhospitality

Late morning, in between sights, I followed up with my hotel as to whether a room with bathroom, had become available.  

They replied that they had given it to other guests.  Their attitude was actually quite unhelpful.  I’m used to receiving genuine warmth and hospitality when I travel to places like Syria and Iran.  What I get here is in stark contrast. 

I think people are quite spoilt by tourism and probably seem foreigners as just money-on-legs.  It’s nearly developed world prices for a third world environment.  

Nightfall

After my sightseeing, I chilled back at the hotel around 1700 with an ice cream.  People were starting to set up for the night trade.  I took a pre-dinner walk to absorb the very special atmosphere before having dinner on the square again.

Without a bathroom, I retreated to the hammam again for my daily wash.

Stalls getting ready for the night.


Stalls in full swing at night.

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