Motorcycle Diaries: The beautiful killer

I had a day free to do “unplanned” sights today, so I used it to go see Gunung Merapi (2968m, Fire Mountain). It is the most active volcano in Indonesia, erupting regularly since 1548.

Merapi has claimed lives recently as recently as 1994 and 2006. The alert was last raised to its highest level only eight months ago (2010) when an evacuation order was issued to 19,000 people. I recall the ash-clouds affected air travel as my flights had already been booked.

The village of Kinharejo which I visited was only an hour away by motorcycle (including driver) but it took a little longer as we had a puncture … bloody nail on the road. The village was badly affected by the ash and lava during the 2006 eruption.

I try not to use the word “awesome” often but I was truly in awe of Merapi as it is very high and very “in-your-face”. It’s not often you see a mountain towering over you despite the distance.

Motorcycle is one of the nice things about travelling in Indonesia. I love the green countryside and the wind in my hair. Yes, I wear a helmet … the other hair … the armpits dry out a little bit better on a bike in this hot/humid weather.

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: My driver with Gunung Merapi in the background.

: Merapi truly towers … just compare it to the foothills.

: Gunung Merapi on the left puffing some smoke and ash; I believe the one on the right is Gunung Merbabu.

: Graves of those killed in the eruption .

: Wasteland of volcanic ash from 2006.

: Merapi truly towers … just compare it to the foothills.

: Wasteland; forest burnt and killed by the hot flying stuff in 2006.

: Damaged van and some kind of stone mannequin.

: Damaged homes from 2006 eruption.

: Wasteland; forest burnt and killed by the hot flying stuff in 2006.

: From a distance Merapi doesn’t look so deadly but deceptively beautiful.

My arrangement with the motorcycle driver had an hour spare when we arrived back into Jogja. This allowed me to visit Taman Sari (Water Castle) without having to engage a becak (rickshaw).

Taman Sari was built around 1760 by the Sultan as his pleasure retreat, with Portuguese architects. It is a splendid pleasuredrome of palaces, pools and waterways. As usual, the architects were killed after the completion to ensure it remains a secret.

: Jogja’s premier street, Jalan Malioboro is named after the Duke of Marlborough (from the pre-Dutch, English colonial days). Unusual since many Indonesian streets have been renamed to local names.