Such a beautiful name

Surabaya takes its name from a legend in which the shark (suro) and crocodile (baya) fight for dominance.  Beautiful story, beautiful name but otherwise …

The old town has crumbling remains from the colonial past … generally Indonesia doesn’t revere that era so such old buildings are left to ruins or renovated beyond recognition.  It’s surprising that the country’s second largest city of 4 million people (including the greater area) feels so run down and poor compared to any place in, say, Vietnam … a country that has recently (in relative terms) unshackled itself from Communism.

I spent some time walking through Chinatown (dead being Sunday), Pasar Pabean (market) and Qubah.  Qubah is the Arab Quarter where you see some people with big eyes and beautifully high noses.

My hotel is only a few steps from the historic Jembatan Merah (red bridge) which was where the Battle of Surabaya was fought.  This battle was an important one in the Indonesian war of independence after Japan surrendered to the Allies.  They fought against the British and their Indian soldiers, who were caretaking for the Dutch.  In fact my hotel is only a few steps from where the British Brigadier Mallaby was killed.

The place to visit in Surabaya is the Sampoerna kretek (clove cigarette) factory where they’re still rolled by hand by women.  Being Sunday, the production hall was empty but the museum was a beautiful place to visit.  The Sampoerna group makes many brands including its namesake, Dji Sam Soe, S T Dupont etc.