Jaded at the start already
I had no super-early transport arrangements left so I was going to let myself settle into local time. But the early sunrise didn’t help so I was awake at 0530. I made use of the time by asking to do my washing at the hostel at 0700 which took about an hour using an old-fashioned twin-tub.
I got breakfast of an egg and vege sandwich on the road … beautiful bread baked by a Muslim woman and filled with fresh stir-fried vegetables. This set me up for my visit to Kaifeng’s main sight which is the Chief Minister’s Temple. This was in fact a collection of shrines with Buddhas in them. I think I’m getting jaded already with temples.
As it was very hot again today, I took a taxi to the Iron Pagoda on the north edge of town. This is a misnomer for a tiled pagoda, the tiles of which have a high iron content lending it a brown appearance. It is set with other buildings amidst charming gardens and ponds. Last stop for the morning was Shan Shan Gan Guild Hall. Surprisingly this small lodging and meeting place turned out to be the highlight for the morning. I liked the detail and richness of the decoration; it impressed me more than the size of the other sights.
After a light snack lunch (well, it was a big lunch but I didn’t like it so ate only the parts I didn’t mind) … retired back to the hostel for much needed shower and siesta in air-conditioned comfort. I decided (once again) that I don’t travel for historical sights in the form of bricks, stones and mortar. Instead, I enjoy street food, just being there, absorbing the ambiance and meeting people.
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- Chinese Muslim (Hui) woman making my breakfast.
- Beautiful bread freshly made on the premises for my breakfast, filled with egg, stir-fried cabbage, sprouts, potatoes and carrot.
- Chief Minister’s Temple.
- Chief Minister’s Temple.
- The four faced, thousand armed Buddha at the Chief Minister’s Temple.
- Roof au naturel near the Iron Pagoda.
- Iron Pagoda’s dark brown tiles with high iron content.
- Iron Pagoda.
- Shan Shan Gan Guildhall is architecturally very delightful to me.
- Shan Shan Gan Guildhall is very intricately decorated.
- Shan Shan Gan Guildhall is architecturally very delightful to me.
- Plaque in a Muslim restaurant.
- My meal in a Muslim restaurant.
- My purchase for CNY25 (NZD5).
Out again
Mid-afternoon I decided that I couldn’t just waste the day away in the cool of my room. I decided to go to historic theme park that attempts to depict life in ancient Kaifeng. It was very expensive by Chinese standards and it is a bit of a tourbus trap. Some of the various performances and the buildings were quite impressive. I’d rather have saved the money. The guidebook says that it has a Jewish Cultural Centre inside the park but it didn’t show on the layout map; but I didn’t bother asking. If you have an interest in that, you should ask before you go in – don’t waste your money otherwise.
- Greedy carps fighting for food at the historical theme park.
- Street performer at the historical theme park. Anyone (?) can breathe fire … but this guy can start a fire after he puts one out with his mouth.
- Pagoda at the historical theme park.
- Pagoda at the historical theme park.
- I hear girls take up belly dancing because it’s the only chance they get to dress up as princesses. Wrong … come to China!
- I didn’t expect Kaifeng to have such a tall tower. Actually, as the town is built over successive civilisations, high-rise buildings are largely found outside the city walls (so as not to have intrusive foundations within).
- Bread oven.
- Another sandwich.
- Setting up for the dinner trade.