Hike in the Baliem Valley

I had arranged with a reputable guide (who runs their association) for some assistance with today’s hike. He quoted IDR500K which is the high end of the rate in the book. As I wasn’t expecting it to be a full day, he offered me a lower end of the recommended rate at IDR400K. But he told me that it would be his porter rather than a guide.

As it was only a daytrip and there’s no specialty knowledge required for flora/fauna, I didn’t think it would make a difference as I could speak Indonesian with him.

Usman turned up at 0730 as arranged and we took a becak to Missi on the edge of town where we waited for a bemo to Sugokmo. The market at Missi was colourful and there were a couple of men with kotekas on.

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It was a 45min ride to Sugokmo and there were parts where the road had disappeared. From there we walked to Kali Yetni a narrow but swift river which during wet season would probably be uncrossable. Now, there were a few bits of wood to help us overcome the deepest areas.

Usman suggested that we take an ojek to near Kurima otherwise the hike would be too long. I was happy with that 🙂

Kurima was quite a large spread-out (and not concentrated) village. We walked through it and ascended a hill to get to Ibiroima. Parts of the walk were very overgrown through thick lallang-type grass.

At times we would pass through people’s backyards that had been fenced up with stone up to chest-height. There would be a ladder fashioned out of branches to help us get over it. We would stop for a chat with the owner and I’d offer him a few cigarettes (which is the custom I had been ignorant of when I went to Jiwika solo yesterday).

There’s quite a bit of agriculture around here. They grow sweet potatoes (the local staple), carrots and avocados amongst other things.

We got to Ibiroma without passing through Kilise. Apart from Kurima, all the other villages are quite small and only a few houses are apparent. There would be a church though so I suppose the village serves as a centre for people that are tucked further away in the hills.

The view of the Baliem river and valley was stunning. We backtracked to Kurima via a different route and crossed the river by a hanging bridge near Kurima. This bridge was horizontal whereas the one we saw near Ibroima had a definitely U-shaped hang to it making it a bit more tricky.

The planks on the bridge weren’t always there and were sometimes loose. I was told to walk in the centreline, just in case.

The bridge took us to Seima where we continued on the eastern bank of the Baliem for over an hour before we reached the bridge that took us back to Sugokmo.

As with the rest of the walk, there were women carrying crops in thread-baskets slung over their heads. A few had a child in addition. The locals are hardy people and go barefooted with heavy loads over long distances faster than I can.

The total walking time (including a short ojek ride and brief breaks) was about 6h45. My right knee was starting to hurt. Every now and then I give myself a slice of the great outdoors to find myself choking on it. It’s a good reminder for me to no try anything longer than 1-2 days!

Back at Wamena after a bemo ride, I passed on the opportunity to go to pasar baru (the markets) where there would be lots of food and colour. I was too tired. We grabbed a becak back to the hotel where I showed Usman the photos from the day.

In my salt-encrusted shirt, I grabbed an early dinner and relaxed in my room before having an early night.