It has been about 18 years since I had been to Sibu, where my mother hails from. As a child we had gone there to see grandma frequently. I thought I was long overdue for a visit there and had bought the air-tickets cheaply and impulsively some 10 months (sounds contradictory but it was impulse at the time of purchase).
I taxied to the airport about 0530 for a 0700 departure to Sibu. I had thought of just flying in, overnighting then fly out again … and not seeing the relatives as we have rather different lives and I was afraid we’d have nothing to talk about.
But word got out that I was coming, and I was asked to pass some legal documents to a cousin. Cuz picked me up at the airport and took me around a bit. It turned out to be good thing as I was helping them out with something and I did enjoy catching up with two cousins.
One of the things I wanted to see in Sibu was my grandma’s old shophouse at 2 Market Road. I was heartbroken to see that the old-fashioned two-storey building had been built over with a five-storey budget hotel.
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Market Road car park doubles as a night market. It was a bus station when I used to visit my grandmother’s shop.
My grandmother’s shop. I was disappointed to see that the classic 2-storey shophouse had been built over with this monstrosity.
Cuz dropped me at the Orchid Hotel where I rested till the late afternoon when I ventured out to explore the Esplanade and boats at the banks of the Rejang river.
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Sibu’s Tua Pek Kong Temple by the Rejang River.
Sibu’s Tua Pek Kong Temple by the Rejang River.
Sibu’s Tua Pek Kong Temple by the Rejang River. I guess they’re praying for pretty big favours, judging by the size of the joss-sticks … especially the guy on the left
Cargo barges for going up river.
Cargo barges for going up river.
Express boats for going up river.
Express boats for going up river; painting the side while sitting on a pontoon.
Express boats for going up river.
Express boats for going up river; unloading.
Express boats for going up river; loading up.
Express boats for going up river; this is a big double-decker one.
Express boats for going up river.
Express boats for going up river.
Express boats for going up river.
Ticketing desk for the express boats for going up river.
Mum and kids, including one in a baby carrier (intricately decorated with beads in a traditional pattern now seen on tattooed bodies around the world).
Live chickens are a common carry-on item for going up river back to the villages.
I found the market; it made me realise that Sibu is quite a different world from Kuching. As the gateway to the interior, the Heart of Borneo, one sees things like chicken wrapped in newspapers and sago worms.
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Live chickens are a common carry-on item for going up river back to the villages.
Live chickens are a common carry-on item for going up river back to the villages.
Live chickens are a common carry-on item for going up river back to the villages.
Live chickens are a common carry-on item for going up river back to the villages.
At the market. The red-faced duck is a common variety in Malaysia.
The produce market outside the official Sibu Market.
Sago worms. Dad would pan fry them then and eat the shrivelled worms.
Midin, a kind of fern. Nice stir fried with sambal.
Rickshaw outside the market.
Some how this building reminds me of Phnom Penh. Perhaps it’s the verandah?
Pork trotters. No flies!
Cats waiting for offcuts thrown out from the upstairs kitchen window.
As the day drew to a close, the night market started to liven up offering an assortment of goodies. I had planned on having bits from different stalls but that came to an end midway when a miscommunication saw me stuck with too many sticks of satay! I could have declined the amounts that I didn’t ask for but it would have been mean to the little kid manning the stall.
Sibu’s night market starting to fire up.
While old Borneo still exists in Sibu, things are changing. Google Street View is coming … and they’re staying at my budget hotel!