Historic centre of Lima and the real Lima

American Airlines rang to confirm that we hadn’t checked out as they weere putting the bags in to taxi to our place. We waited and waited, then gave up and prepared to go out. I said that as soon as Kim had showered and put on his dirty clothes back on, the bags would arrive. Sure enough, exactly that happened at 1130.

Still in our dirty clothes, both of us took a taxi around 1145 for the historic centre of Lima. Along the way the driver did an illegal turn into a one-way street and was pulled up by a motorcycle cop. His papers were checked but he wasn’t ticketed. Quite surprisingly, he didn’t have to give a bribe.

We got our directions by walking around Plaza San Martin before settling on a set meal each at one of the many restaurants bordering the square. We realised later that meals in these restaurants are cheaper than many chain fastfood. Strange!

We walked down the pedestrian mall that joined San Martin to Plaza de Armas. It was lined with shoe shops, cinemas and food outlets. We admired a church on the way that was closed. Getting to Plaza de Armas, we saw the Cathedral on the opposite side.

It was a typical Spanish plaza with government buildings and the cathedral. It didn’t stop us from enjoying and admiring the baroque grandeur. The Cathedral itself was closed but the adjaent church of the Tabernacle was open awaiting the arrival of the groom and bride.

From a nearby park, we saw some shantytowns on the hillside. This was the Lima I had kinda imagined. It certainly is a very small part of Lima.

Kim had been tempted by a lemon meringue pie which we backtracked for. We then realised we had forgotten about the rest of the walking tour as suggested by the book. Getting to the resumption point and from thereon, it was the “real Lima”. First we had had busy main roads; then crowded footpaths; busy markets selling produce, food, hardware, and junk; then Chinatown with hardly any Chinese running the shops.

We ended up in an area with shops located in old buildings. The chaotic streets were jammed with vendors and cars. It was a different world from Miraflores and more like the back streets of Mexico City. We eventually found a taxi back to Miraflores.

After a shower, much needed change of clothes and a rest, we returned to last night’s restaurant for a cheap but satisfying feed. Well, I thought we were satisfied until we saw a cake shop where we were tempted by a creme caramel (flan in Argentina) to take back.

I thought today was a good day. We got our luggage and we gained a truer insight into Lima. We had been shielded from the third-world reality on the first day having been in Miraflores and Barranco.

In terms of the best area to stay in, Miraflores does seem like the best choice. Yes, in many cities, it is nice to stay in the historic centre but Lima isn’t like that. The areas in the old centre hasn’t been gentrified. It is definitely more pleasant in Miraflores.