In Samarkand but not

With an 0800 train, I started getting ready at 0600 working towards a pickup about an hour later. I made sure I got my 2 nights registration from the night receptionist before a light breakfast and checking out. My taxi arrived before the appointed time of 0710 and it was only a 5 min ride to the station.

There was a preliminary security and ID check at the station gate and a more serious one at the entrance. Once done with that, I walked through to the platform and boarded the waiting fast train (Afrosiyob) to find someone in my seat.  As it turned out, that was the earlier train so I returned into the building for about 20 minutes.

My train left on time on its 2h10 journey to Samarkand, reaching a maximum of 230 km/h. The country side was a mix of brown with some green cultivated land. Some biscuits and tea was served on board.

I took a taxi to the Jahongir Hotel near the Registan Square. After settling in, I grabbed lunch of dumplings (with a dollop of thickened yoghurt and dill) near the Registan before exploring the majestic square. As the weather was very grey and drizzly, it wasn’t the right day to pay for the entry and photography. I continued to Bibi Ghanum mosque and mausoleum nearby and ditto, I didn’t enter. With the necropolis across the road also within a stone’s throw, I decided that it would be better to do all this tomorrow. It should be quite achievable.

I returned to the room to keep warm and dry. I met some of the family running the guesthouse. Most look quite Asian/Mongolian, some darker Asian but one brother looked completely European!

Later attempts in the afternoon to head out were also in vain due to weather. I finally left the guesthouse around 1730. I had been told that there was a hammam in the old Jewish city, neare Bibi Ghanum. It seemed like a good idea in this cold weather and made my way there by foot.

The price on the gate said UZS6000 per person. I was shown around the facilities; they were OK in terms of cleanliness. One of the masseurs approached me and quoted me UZS40,000 for a wash, scrub and massage (starting at a higher price). It wasn’t expensive but I felt like being left alone and I wasn’t sure if I had enough money for that plus dinner. I called it quits and left for dinner.

Dinner was at the same place as lunch. I opted for the laghman which I would assume comes from the Chinese “Lah Mian” which is commonly known as Ramen in the West using the Japanese name. It was noodle in a lamb soup with some potatoes and veges. A dollop of tomato paste was on the side. It was tasty enough and not as fatty as I had imagined.

I wandered across to Registan Square to admire it illuminated. Funny that it was illuminated while there had been a power cut to the surrounding shops. It did look good and I look forward to exploring the interiors tomorrow and also getting some daylight pictures with some sunlight!  It had been a funny kind of day being in Samarkand but not going to any of the sights properly pending better weather/light.