I had hoped for a more relaxing day today. But as usual I want to check everything out. I wandered to the sights further out of town today, plus had some uncharted ramblings.
After a big breakfast where they kept bringing out more and more food, I wandered randomly and found myself at a synagogue on the edge of the square. Further unplanned walks found myself at the Jewish cemetery.
Looking at the gravestone pictures at the cemetery, Jewish Uzbeks didn’t look any different. Some men and women wore the same headdress (cap and scarf) I would have normally associated with Muslim Uzbeks. Bukhara had a significant number of Jews, historically. Like in many parts of the world they co- existed with Muslims until the creation of Israel drove a wedge in the relationship.
From there I made my way towards a recommended sight, the Fayzulla Khojaev Museum, which was the mansion of a rich local. The museum didn’t really look open for business even though it wasn’t closed. I had a little wander before heading back to the square and on to Chor Minor or Char Minar, which is a gatehouse with four towers that led to a madrassah which no longer stands.
I took a rest after a light lunch of a Samsa (pastry) followed by baklava and tea.
In the afternoon I wandered to the Ismail Samani Mausoleum which was one of the oldest standing monument in town dating back to ~900 AD. It was nice enough but probably not worth the walk; it would have been different if I had tagged it on from the Ark yesterday but I was tired then too.
So much for the nice easy day I had wanted. I spent the rest of the late afternoon writing and organising a ride to Khiva. If one shares a private car to Khiva (door to door) it doesn’t cost much more than the shared taxi (station to station) plus the two taxis at either end (in Bukhara and at Urgench/Khiva). Fabrizio had made some enquiries but there was only both of us.
I asked my hotel and the man was able to get us to Khiva for USD15 pp, subject to a third person. There was doubt as to whether we would get that third person but the driver was hopeful. We met up before dinner and paid up before eating together at a madrassah off the main square.
I ordered a juice but was given a whole carton! They didn’t sell it by the glass! Ah well, it will keep and will go nicely with sparkling water.
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- Inside one of the two halls in Bukhara’s Synagogue.
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- On the synagogue wall.
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- Back streets of Bukhara.
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- Chor Minor; four minarets.
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- Ismail Samani Mausoleum.
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- Local man in Bukhara.
