Arriving in and exploring Qom

Flying to Tehran

With the aid of a sleeping pill after supper, I slept for around 3h30 and rested for another 30 minutes before opening my eyes.  The entertainment system (marked with Olympic Airways who kindly specified thick wide sumptuous seats with plenty of legroom) was not utilised.

A snack of a very good quality sandwich was served with fresh fruit.  It was generously stuffed with what looked like ham but it must be chicken-ham or turkey-ham.

We landed in Tehran about 30 minutes ahead of schedule at 0315, parking at a remote gate a few steps from the terminal building.  The bus virtually inched forward to take us there.  There were no arrival cards to be completed and I was the only person at the foreigner queue. The officer asked if I had a visa and I told him I didn’t need one … he had to confirm with a colleague which I guess means not many of my fellow countrymen make it here.

Since we were so early, I took the opportunity for a pitstop before exiting through customs with just an x-ray scan.  I walked around the public area and confirmed that the bank exchange rates were official compared to the blackmarket rate (about 45% better).

The EUR was officially 49200 IRR (per XE and airport bank) but 72000 through my driver and 75250 through Bonbast, a website belonging to an exchanger in town which I have no access to.

The USD was officially 41200 IRR (per XE and airport bank) but 61000 through my driver and 64500 through Bonbast.

Onwards to Qom

I then waited for my pre-arranged driver who was meant to be there at 0415, which was 30 minutes after arrival.  Prayers or readings were being piped through the PA.  The driver arrived spot-on-time and we went down to the carpark and set off for Qom.

The drive was all on the motorway with a maximum speed of 120 km/h.  Even with a 5 min prayer break at a mosque, we were in Qom after an hour.  Getting to the hotel proved a little tricky as he couldn’t find it on his GPS and when we spotted it, it was troublesome to get to.  The highway-style road was on a split-level to the built-up area and required a bit of detouring.

Getting to Al-Zahra hotel at 0600, I was told the official check-in was 1400.  I sat and ate some food I took from the plane.  With rain outside, I couldn’t immediately go explore.  The temperature was very pleasant but projected to hit a max of 30 degC.

When the frontdesk staff arrived at 0700, I was given a room immediately.  I think the other man was just a cleaner or night-watch.  After a shower, I settled into bed and dozed lightly for about 90 minutes.

Out and about in Qom

I fumbled slowly to get ready and headed out around 1000 towards Hazrat-e-Masumeh, the shrine and burial place of Imam Reza’s sister Faetemeh who died here in the 9^th Century.  At the entrance of the complex I was asked if I was Muslim and where I was from.  I answered Malaysia and was let in but reminded “No Photo”.  I was asked again closer to the mosque and managed to get in, as the guidebook said non-Muslims are usually permitted all the way in the courtyard up till but excluding the mosque.

It was a beautiful place but with a mirrored facade and a golden dome.  It was such a pity I wasn’t allowed to take pictures (but on subsequent entries I did, as I noticed locals were doing so).

I exited the shrine area into the pedestrian mall and continued to Astane Square and the new bazaar which wasn’t very interesting.  One thing I did catch my eye was the high extent of electronic card transactions even for small purchases.  If it weren’t for the fact that they’re domestic-only card terminals, this would be more advanced than say Malaysia.

I made my way back across the other side of the sunken road which cut across the area.  There I came across a cemetery but didn’t go in it.  The gravestones consisted of plaques laid in the ground rather than any protrusions like I have seen in other Muslim countries.  Time for a rest back in the hotel!

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I had to snack on nuts and eat muesli for lunch.  There was only one place open and it was just burgers and hot dog.

I couldn’t wait for dinner to be available.  Sunset was around 2015 and with prayers, the restaurant near the hotel served me dinner around 2030.  Considering the night flight and time difference, it was awfully late for me.

At the breaking of the fast, the waiters rushed bowls of soup out to the streets to pedestrians who weren’t at home tucking into their much-deserved dinner.  Around town, there were picnics everywhere.

I had made several trips in and out of the hotel through the shrine area today.  For a wander, to buy and adapter, and finally dinner.  Each time I confidently walked through the security and said “Salam” and was patted down and let through with no questions asked.

The very final time, after walking through the pedestrian mall back into the shrine, I was asked pulled aside by the security man and handed over to the supervisor.  He asked where I was from.  I said “Malaysia”.  He asked for my passport but the best I could do was show him my hotel card as my passport was locked up in my room.  He said “Shiite?”  I sheepishly said “Sunni” wary of the possible ill-feeling.

He said “Goodbye” and shook my hand.  I was thought he meant “Get lost and go back out the door where you came from”.  But brimming with confidence I walked right through into the shrine area to get back to my hotel.