Crossing to Long Bawan in Indonesia

Crossing the border

I woke around 0700 for breakfast at 0730.  My hosts suggested that time despite a departure at 0900 (subject to weather) across to the Indonesian weather.  With weather looking favourable, Badau and I walked into town around 0915 where he had his bike parked.  The dogs cleverly didn’t come along (whereas they did for ALL my other walks during my stay).

The journey across to Long Bawan took a total of around 1 hour with four stops:

• After around 30 minutes through potholed sealed roads and some muddy stretches, we arrived at the Malaysian immigration post.  We gave our Malaysian identity cards to them and a photocopied letter was given to us as authority for the Indonesians to let us in.
• It was a short ride to the Malaysian military post where an Indonesian soldier was also stationed.
• Next, it was the Indonesian military post where our identity cards were held until our return, in exchange for a numbered laminated card as receipt.
• Finally, we went to the Indonesian immigration post where the letter was stamped, and our details logged into a book.

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On the Indonesian side

First village on the Indonesian side was Long Midang which was the site of a salt factory which we would visit on the return.  Second Buduk Tumu which had rice fields.  And third was our destination Long Bawan.

Even though Long Bawan and the area isn’t connected to anywhere significant (or coastal) in Indonesia, the new connecting roads being built within the region are impressively well-built with strong foundations on boggy rice fields.

First thing to do at Long Bawan was for Badau to replace the seat cover on his bike.  His makeshift plastic sheeting was causing me to slide forward to him when going downhill.  We went for a walk thereafter.

On the other hand, my first task to turn on my Indonesian SIM and try get emails and messages.  Just like on the Malaysian side, even though I had good signal, the internet didn’t work.

During the first spurt of showers, we took shelter in a guesthouse with some antiques including Japanese swords.  Near the airport, a heavier shower broke suddenly and took refuge in a weaving/basketry shop which provided employment for old widows.

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Complex logistics of everyday life

Re-emerging after the showers, I zoomed into the yellow cropduster plane (which was actually a fuel tanker) that landed earlier and stole a shot.  It was only when I was back at the homestay that I realised that I could see the white-man pilot transferring the fuel to a truck which would then take it to the Pertamina station.  Unlike most local pilots, I suppose he prefers a life of adventure rather than a well-paid career in an airline.

I learnt that the airport has a long runway sufficient for jets but the build quality didn’t meet the weight requirements for jets or even large props like the ATR.  Right now, only small planes land here bringing fuel and goods.  Understandably, it is cheaper for goods to be brought in from Lawas (already a remote town) via Bakelalan.

Apart from flying fuel in, my favourite example of the complexity of life here is encapsulated in the story of the Sedaap instant noodles.  It is a Malaysian brand licensed to manufacturers in Indonesia.  It is then sent back to Malaysia, then to remote Lawas and then driven up to Bakelalan and then Long Bawan!  All because Long Bawan isn’t connected by road to the rest of Indonesia!

Another one would be the vehicles in Long Bawan.  They’re largely without number plates and the few that do have plates are Malaysian ones.  There’s no point having Indonesian plates as it isn’t connected to anywhere in Indonesia.  I have been told most vehicles are stolen from Malaysia and sold cheaply here where they cannot be recovered.

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We grabbed lunch of Ayam Penyet at a Javanese place.  Badau took my recommendation for the Sambal Teri sauce (he learnt that it was Ikan Pusu or Bilis in our language).  It was yummy even though the chicken was typically small as they are in Indonesia.

Salt factory

After around two hours in Long Bawan, we hopped back on the bike towards the four checkpoints. We didn’t need to call into the first one, the Indonesian immigration.  We collected our identity cards and continued to the salt factory at Long Midang just before the actual border.

There were two saltwater wells behind the building.  The water is scooped in to half-drums over woodfire and boiled dry.  The product is sunned outside to complete the drying before being bagged in a choice modern plastic bags or leaves.  The community members have a weekly rotation to run the operation and take the proceeds.

While there, I was offered some bunga kantan (torch ginger) fruit “saleh”.  It was sour and tasted better with a pinch of salt or instant noodle flavouring.

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From the salt factory, we called by the two Malaysian posts to re-enter Malaysia.  A large immigration complex was in the works.  Ironically, the workers there are probably all illegal Indonesians!

I wonder what the future crossing might be.  Right now, Malaysians can get across on just an identity card wheras Indonesians require a restricted trans-border passport.  And crossing is now limited to the two nationalities.  Will passports be required in future and will foreigners be able to cross once again?

Back in Malaysia

Since it was around 1400, Badau thought it was a bit too early to head home.  He took me to Bukit Doa Tudal, a hilltop with a chapel where a miracle happened back in 1984.  God turned water into cooking oil and rice into flour.

We enjoyed the view from there before heading back to town to return the bike.  I saw the start of to Bario.  It is only 40km as the crow flies and take 8 mins on the plane on that routing, but the normal routing is 15 mins.

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Back in the homestay

We made it back to the homestay just before heavy rainfall.  It turned quite cool and I needed an extra layer.  The fireplace was very welcome tonight.

For dinner, Maureen prepared senamu.  It is fermented fatty pork together with fermented cooked rice.  They warned me it that it was pongy but I thought it smelt like tapai (a rice wine product).  It was fried to a mush before being served.  I liked the flavour but didn’t like the fatty pork with rind.