Getting ready
I woke early due to the previous early mornings I’ve had, and also the one hour time difference. I had suggested an early departure but the petrol station didn’t open till 0800.
I killed time with a walk back to the waterfront to catch the view in a different light, before returning for breakfast. My motorbike driver had some hotel responsibilities to take care of, such as cleaning and sweeping.
Ariung Mandalam
We left around 0830 for Ariung Mandalam or Betang Semangkok. The ride took only 30 minutes, which was less than the 1h+ which was estimated. I knew that would be the case.
The setting was gorgeous! The longhouse was located across the Mandalam river (a tributary of the Kapuas). And the hanging bridge across the river completed the postcard-perfect picture!
On the other side, we realised there was the old longhouse and a newer one on the left. We followed someone to the newer one and asked permission to visit but was referred to the older longhouse where an elder may be found.
At the old longhouse, an older gentleman hosted us. We chatted for about 20 minutes and I learnt that people here are rather knowledgeable about their Dayak brothers on the Malaysian side, the various Sarawak cities and some have visited a few of them. The gentleman showed me his parang or sword with an intricately carved handle.
The Dayaks in this longhouse are Taman and they claim to be related to the Baleh Dayaks near Kapit, Sarawak.
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- The Ariung Mandalam longhouse, also called Betang Semangkok is located on the Mandalam River, a tributary of the Kapuas.
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- The Ariung Mandalam longhouse, also called Betang Semangkok is located on the Mandalam River, a tributary of the Kapuas.
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- The Mandalam River here is a healthy clear river (relative for the kind of muddy geology), unaffected by mining or forestry activities.
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- Pig with very tiny piglet by its snout.
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- The longhouse is described as being 500 years old, meaning that the foundation poles are of that age. It has outlived the longhouses it has supported. This longhouse is now in its third location.
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- The longhouse is described as being 500 years old, meaning that the foundation poles are of that age. It has outlived the longhouses it has supported. This longhouse is now in its third location.
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- We enter through the log stairs. Note the carved head at the top.
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- This is the sheltered corridor. The private rooms, one for each family are through the doors on the left. The layout differs from those in Sarawak where there is a deck on the outside (to our right, if it were to exist).
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- Looking out to the outside and the river.
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- This is the sheltered corridor. The private rooms, one for each family are through the doors on the left. The layout differs from those in Sarawak where there is a deck on the outside (to our right, if it were to exist).
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- Water buffalo skull.
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- This is the sheltered corridor. The private rooms, one for each family are through the doors on the right.
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- This gentleman chatted with us at length. He showed be his parang (sword). The people in this longhouse are Cathlolic.
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- Log ladder into the Mandalam river.
We were told of their annex longhouse to the right, so we followed the river to find a longhouse with some concrete parts. This was probably the newest of the three. Again, we sat and chatted.
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- This is the second annex to Betang Semangkok’s original longhouse. It is of modern construction with the use of some concrete.
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- In the corridor area.
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- Borneo tribal motifs have inspired tattoos on countless bodies around the world.
Finally, we went back to the very first one we briefly went to. It looked a bit ramshackle after the one we had just been to. Residents were in the process of “buang pantang” which is the lifting of a period of restrictions (but literally superstition). Apparently someone had passed away 20 days ago, the mourning had just come to an end. They had been restricted from all sorts of things like wearing jewellery, music etc.
Again, we chatted here. We were offered some rice wine to drink. My Muslim driver drank it regardless as a sign of respecting the local culture. He reckons that alcohol in small quantities which doesn’t cause drunkenness is not an issue.
All in all, our stay in the three longhouses was just under two hours.
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- Third Longhouse. This is the first annex to Betang Semangkok’s original longhouse. It is of rough-and-ready wooden construction.
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- Kids playing by the gongs.
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- The corridor area.
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- People are gathered for “buang pantang” or lifting of the a superstitious or mourning period of 20 days after someone’s death. During that period there were many restrictions on daily life eg. can’t wear gold etc. Traditional practices coexist with their Catholic beliefs.
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- The corridor area.
Bali Gundi
It was a 30 minute ride to Bali Gundi. Having been built in 1996, it is a sturdy modern building. But it employs wood throughout (apart from the metal roof over the wooden shingles). It is probably the most traditionally put-together longhouse.
Here, the longhouse was deserted. Perhaps the proximity to town meant that people can easily go out or go to work. A few ladies directed us to the guest register and the donation box. No one was interested in chatting to us, so we wandered by ourselves and said goodbye.
I truly feel like I’ve had a good spread of longhouses on the authenticity scale. In Sarawak, many are concrete and resemble modern terrace houses. Here, I didn’t see one with thatched roof but I think they’re hard to find now; they require regular replacement.
I’ve seen real traditional longhouses in my younger days. They’re actually not very picturesque. Often, they start off shorter and get extended continuously. As a result, they’re a little hodgepodge, mishmash and ramshackle.
It was another 30 minute ride back to the guesthouse. It was after midday when I got back. As I paid my driver, I thought I’d be generous and pay him the agreed amount despite the shorter distances. He had been good by helping with the correct protocol in each place in seeking permission to enter. But I my only condition was that he took me to the airport tomorrow morning as part of the price, and he agreed.
For my driver, he had learnt about the existence of Ariung Mandalam which we both think was the better longhouse. I guess this increases his local knowledge for future guiding purposes.
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- Fourth Longhouse, Bali Gundi. This is a completely different longhouse in a different location. It was built in 1996 and has 33 doors (rooms housing a family).
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- While relatively modern, it employs traditional materials (apart from the modern metal roof on top of the wooden shingles).
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- The corridor area. Its probably the most traditionally put together modern longhouse.
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- The corridor area. Its probably the most traditionally put together modern longhouse.
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- First time I’ve seen the loft of a longhouse being used for dwelling. I think each unit has interior stairs to the above. Not all units have used the loft space yet.
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- Touring by motorcycle, it doesn’t take long for me to go brown. Two-toned arms!
Around Town
I had a lazy afternoon in the air-con before heading out around 1630 when it was cooler. The weather here had been rather hot at 35degC yesterday and 34degC today. I ventured out in the late afternoon for a final explore of Putussibau, including its waterfront. For a change, I had my meal outside of the guesthouse at a Chinese place.
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- Around Putussibau town.
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- Around Putussibau town.
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- Scenes around the Kapuas river area. Houseboat and floating platform.
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- Scenes around the Kapuas river area.
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- Scenes around the Kapuas river area. Floating boat terminal and water taxis.
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- Scenes around the Kapuas river area. Houseboat and floating platform.
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- The local church, Sacred Heart of the Immaculate Virgin Mary. The old building church next door is merely Immaculate Mary church. The names get more and more honorable.
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- Scenes around the Kapuas river area. Floating sheds and houseboats.
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- Scenes around the Kapuas river area. Bridge across the Kapuas links the two parts of Putussibau.
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- Scenes around the Kapuas river area. Floating boat terminal and water taxis.
