Our pousada served a good buffet breakfast of cold cuts, cheese, bread, fresh juices and awesome fruit. With the time change, we were eating at 0720 and out for a walk on the waterfront around 0900.
We admired the beautiful sandy beaches and water but it seemed a bit cool and windy at this time of day. By the time we reached the lighthouse museum, the weather had turned and was drizzling. We looked through the exhibits and made it to the lookout when the rain had eased.
The waterfront took a turn to the left (east) and continued for quite a distance. With the changeable weather in mind, we retreated to Walmart Supermarket to get some stuff for our 4 night stay. Things were surprisingly expensive. In fact, it was some things were more expensive than Europe or the US and that was surprising when the 30km ride from the airport was so economical at around BRL50 (NZD20).
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- One of Barra’s beaches, very close to our pousada.
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- One of Barra’s beaches, very close to our pousada. Look at the size of those waves.
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- One of Barra’s beaches, very close to our pousada.
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- Barra’s lighthouse.
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- View from Barra’s lighthouse.
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- View from Barra’s lighthouse.
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- Barra’s esplanade.
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- On Barra’s beaches. Loungers, umbrellas, drinks, snack vendors.
After a little rest, we took an Uber to Pelourinho, Salvador’s old town. Literally, the name means a post to which people (black slaves) could be tied to for punishment such as whipping. I asked to be dropped off near the Sao Francisco church but we ended up alighting somewhat near there.
Hungry, we found very little to eat. It wasn’t very touristy. Walking around, we found some “per kilo” buffets where we had two good meals and a drink for the same price as a footlong Subway or a six-inch Subway combo. Just shows the price differential between local-style food and something “international”. I think we got really good value; paying by weight, it seemed right for us to get more meat and less starch!
Continuing our walk after lunch, we found the more touristy areas where more options were available. The area was extremely colourful with pastel-coloured buildings,Afro-Brazilian women dressed up in big ballooning skirts, drummers, capoiera martial artists etc. It’s sad that such a terrible past of slavery lurks beneath the beauty of the place.
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- Terreiro de Jesus, a lovely square.
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- At Terreiro de Jesus. Capoiera martial artists putting on a performance for tips.
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- At Terreiro de Jesus. Capoiera martial artists putting on a performance for tips.
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- Fantastic drummers on the streets of Pelourinho.
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- Around Pelourinho, the area of Salvador named after theh column on which slaves are tied for whipping.
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- Around Pelourinho, the area of Salvador named after theh column on which slaves are tied for whipping.
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- Around Pelourinho, the area of Salvador named after theh column on which slaves are tied for whipping.
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- Around Pelourinho, the area of Salvador named after theh column on which slaves are tied for whipping.
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- Around Pelourinho, the area of Salvador named after theh column on which slaves are tied for whipping.
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- Around Pelourinho, the area of Salvador named after theh column on which slaves are tied for whipping.
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- Women in traditional Afro-Brazilian costumes for pictures with tourists.
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- Women in traditional Afro-Brazilian costumes for pictures with tourists.
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- White people can’t make and sell black-faced dolls. But I guess black people can.
We entered the church of Sao Francisco with its ornate interior. Surprisingly the courtyard area was very rundown with supports to prevent further deterioration. Perhaps it is awaiting proper restoration.
We did need to take shelter in a nice cafe during a period of heavy rain before ending our trip to Pelourinho with a ride on Elevador Lacera to the lower city. With uncertain weather, we didn’t venture far in the lower city. From our ride into the city, parts were scarily rundown and had a few homeless people. Actually even in old town, I didn’t get the feel that it was safe to venture too far away from the well-trodden area. We were both pleased that we had taken the advice to stay in beautiful Barra (and just make a trip to the old city).
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- Sao Francisco church.
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- The Sao Francisco church is surprisingly rundown.
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- The interior of Sao Francisco church is splendid.
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- The interior of Sao Francisco church is splendid.
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- Looking down towards the lower city.
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- Lacera elevator connects the old town to the lower city.
With no internet, we took a taxi back to Barra from the near the top of Lacera elevator. It was only a tad more than the Uber price but a more direct route (probably due to one-way roads). So, it was nice to know that the taxi driver was quite honest.
We finished the day with dinner at a restaurant near the hotel, on the esplanade. We shared a roesti filled with some bolognaise, and a prawn dish served with some rice and delicious pureed manioc.
After dinner, we ran into the pousada’s owner, Joe, who also owned the two adjoining restaurants. He’s from Sao Paulo but lives in San Francisco. We had a nice long chat with him and he offered us a capirinha each. We heard about his plans to redevelop his properties into an 8-storey apartment block. He seems to have been quite instrumental in gentrifying the area.