Exploring Erbil

First taste of Erbil

I wandered out after a leisurely breakfast for my first taste of Erbil.  I found my way to the citadel area about 20 mins walk away.  The route from my hotel was through areas selling unattractive things like hardware.

Around the base of the citadel was the city’s main square and the bazaars.  The pools and fountains at the square weren’t operational at the time.  I meandered through the bazaars for a while before walking up to the citadel.

I wish I had started earlier as it was rather hot after 1000. The citadel has been inhabited continuously for the last 8000 years.  But most of it is off-limits for restoration.  I wandered to the the gate at the opposite end for a view of the other side of town before entering the Kurdish Textile Museum.

Inside the small unassuming building were two storeys of beautifully displayed rugs.  I took my time and enjoyed the air-conditioning.  An old Scottish couple who now live in South Africa asked for the young man to open up the cafe.  I joined them for a cuppa and chatted with them.  They had noticed me on the flight last night.  They also travel to less common destinations but I think they do it in style.  They kindly payed for my tea before leaving.

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Changing Money

I had found a map on the internet showing the various sights in Erbil.  On it was the money changers’ alley where one can see stacks of notes on the tables.  I needed to change USD100 into local currency to supplement the Dinars I had received as change last night for the taxi and hotel.  Leaving the bazaar, I followed the map but I I couldn’t locate the place.

After a delicious chicken skewer and a rest, I headed out again to try change my money.  I had seen some money changers near my place.  Heading back to them, I found the alley where there were lots more money changers.  It appears that the map was wrong.

I wanted a photo of how they keep so many USD100 notes in the cabinets.  This place must be less safe than Yemen where they keep stacks of them on the open table!  I complimented the man as to how many notes he had and that he was very rich.  Flattery!  I proceeded to take a photo and he shifted more USD100 notes in place for me!  Then to the stalls with stacks of local currency, I took a photo but got face-palmed.  I quickly left.

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Ankawa & NGO workers

I had arranged to meet Ann, a friend of my Sudan hostel roomie, Marius.  She was going to advise me on any security concerns in Iraqi Kurdistan over drinks/dinner in Ankawa, the Christian district where she lives.  She’s not allowed to take taxis and the regional ride-hailing operator Careem has been suspended for not paying their taxes.

I headed to Ankawa by taxi and helped the driver get to my destination at the Syriac Heritage Museum.  It was free to visit and had a collection of various as aspects of Syriac heritage of course, including costumes, farming implements, pottery, alphabets (there are three types varying through here, Turkey and the Levant), monasteries and important people.  I found the costumes and alphabets interesting.  With the latter, one can see a slight resemblance to Arabic at times but not at all at other times.

I wandered around the neighbourhood.  St George Church was nearby but despite being old and historic it seemed to be renovated and contemporary.  It wasn’t much of a sight.

I had an hour to kill before my meet-up with Ann.  Time goes faster with internet so I found a cafe with Wifi attached to a hotel.  I ordered a tea which came with water and pistachios.  I knew that it would cost extra but the bill was a shock at IQD7000 (about USD6) especially when my delicious lunch of a large chicken kebab with some accompaniments and water was only IQD3000 (USD2.50).  Live and learn!

I met Ann and her two colleagues at 1900 at Teacher’s Club.  It was a large grassed open courtyard and I couldn’t believe the temperature drop walking in there.  While hot outside, it was cool inside and turned a little chilly as time went on; I put it down to the grassed ground rather than concrete or tarseal.

The summary of the security advice was as follows:

• From Erbil to Duhok, it is OK to take the main road.  My concern had been the main road going near Mosul but the advice she had received is that it wasn’t a concern anymore.
• While in Duhok, daytrip to Amedi is OK but do not explore or hike the region.
• Going down south to Sulaymaniyah, avoid the main road going near Kirkuk.  Try to change in Koya instead (but later updated it to taking the Smaquli Road which I couldn’t locate anywhere).

Since the recent and sudden withdrawal of US forces from Syria, Turkey had launched attacks into the nearby Syrian area.  They were rather busy on their phones fielding enquiries to finalise arrangements for about 20 busloads of Syrian refugees heading into the area near Duhok.

Watching them work (over drinks and dinner) highlighted to me that their skills are similar to those needed in any management or project work.  Decisiveness, coordination, communication, consulting with subject-matter experts etc .  But their work affects the well-being of people rather than to deliver less meaningful products, services or outcomes.  Amazing people!

Ann kindly paid for my meal and drinks.  I took a taxi back to my hotel reaching there a little before 2300.  It was my big night out as I’m normally in my room around 2000.  Quite unusually, the young Kurdish taxi driver was able to speak Arabic.  I was surprised at how he said Arabic was an important language as many Kurds don’t speak it.

The way I look at it, if you do schooling in Kurdish and fluent in only that, you have opportunities in Iraqi Kurdistan and possibly the neighbouring regions across the border.  With Arabic, you have more opportunities in Iraq and the Arab world (subject to discrimination).  And with English, you have a lot more of the world open to you (subject to the limitations of the Iraqi passport).

After dinner shot with my lovely host for the evening.