Why I’m in Istanbul
I came to Istanbul because Covid-19 PCR tests here are ridiculously cheap and fast. With my entry into Malaysia and Sarawak on consecutive days, longhaul flights and an overnight in connection, there was the possibility I’d end up having to take two separate tests for the two entries. A free stopover in Istanbul on Turkish Airlines fixed that.
I’ve always loved Istanbul and thought I’d never tire of it. But having lost the ability to travel for nearly two years, I feel even more for the place. Except for the urban sprawl and motorway traffic we encountered yesterday.
Ayasofya
First up, I thought I’d revisit the Ayasofya even though I had been in recent years. There had been scaffolding on previous visit which detracted from it. Having been reverted back to a mosque, it’s now free to enter and doesn’t require pre-booking. There had been so much hooh-hah with people thinking it would be the end of public access to the beautiful place.
I got there around 0900 and found that it opened at 0930. I took a detour to the Sultanahmet (“Blue”) Mosque opposite instead. I literally spent seconds in there as the interior was still scaffolded and boarded, probably more so than last time.
The Ayasofya was completed as a church in 537 AD and in its life, it has been transformed into a mosque, a museum and two years ago back into a mosque. With scaffolding gone this visit, it was awesome (not a word I use lightly). Sadly the gallery (upstairs) was closed for restoration.
I noticed some strips of cloth over the dome where the altar used to be. Then I realised that they were hiding mosaics of Jesus. These mosaics had been plastered over during the time it was a mosque but exposed and restored when converted into a museum.
Now that it is a functioning mosque, the image of Jesus has been shielded as he is a prophet to Muslims and depiction is typically a no-no. But Turkey is quite relaxed about these things. Depiction of Jesus in the foyer has remained.
I also took a look at the Ayasofya Tombs which I only discovered on my last visit. Perhaps they weren’t even open 30 years ago?
Text continues after this gallery.
-
- Ayasofya was completed in 537AD originally as a churchTurkey’s stray dogs are very fat, healthy and clean.
-
- As Ayasofya is back as a functioning mosque, entry is now free of charge. They haven’t started charging like in Europe, for entry into cathedrals.
-
- The strips of cloth in the dome shield the depictions of Jesus (who is a prophet in Islam).
-
- The strips of cloth in the dome shield the depictions of Jesus (who is a prophet in Islam).
-
- Tomb of Sultan Selim II who died in 1574 along with the tomb of some family members. This is located adjoining the Ayasofya.
-
- These tiles are replicas. In the late 1800s, the originals were sent to France for restoration and returned as fakes!
Suleymaniye Mosque
I love the view from the outside of Suleymaniye Mosque and went there at pace to ensure I did strike prayer time, so I could also appreciate the interior. I probably had 30 mins spare.
This mosque is about a thousand years newer than the Ayasofya and less intricate than both the Ayasofya and the Sultanahmet Mosque.
It was peaceful in the adjoining cemetery. A whole world away from the chaos of Aksaray and the motorway last night.
Text continues after this gallery.
-
- One of my favourite views of Istanbul is from Suleymaniye Mosque.
-
- Suleymaniye Mosque completed in 1616, about a thousand years later than the Ayasofya, is also less touristy.
-
- Suleymaniye Mosque completed in 1616, about a thousand years later than the Ayasofya, is also less touristy.
-
- Tomb of Kanuni Suleyman Khan and family.
-
- Cemetery.
Bazaars
From Suleymaniye Mosque, it was a natural progression to the Grand Bazaar. Parts of the ceiling was being replastered and repainted, with scaffolds and boards for the workers.
I continued to the Egyptian or Spice Bazaar before grabbing a lahmacun for lunch. At payment time, the staff rubbed my back and encouraged me to put my change into their tip box. Not that there was actually any service.
Text continues after this gallery.
-
- Grand Bazaar; much of which is currently under restoration for its ceiling.
-
- Herbs, flowers, spices and some prescriptions.
-
- Crazily busy in the open street bazaar.
-
- Egyptian or Spice Bazaar.
Borek and PCR
A lahmacun is fairly light; it is a super-thin crust pizza. I needed a bit more food as I was resting in my room. I craved for a borek and went out in search of one. I found what I wanted but also struck a few good places for PCR tests. I booked one with a nearby hotel which offered nearly the lowest price at TRY150 (NZD19) and offered a 6h turnaround (swab at 1000, result at 1600).
That’s much cheaper than at the airport but not as fast at the airport’s 90 min turnaround. But because I’d be able to do it in the morning, I’d get the report earlier. But the earlier report probably doesn’t do anything since it would be non-work hours in Sarawak.
The borek filled me up even though I couldn’t finish it. I actually felt bloated and didn’t feel like dinner. I forced myself into a light meal after 2000 and got tempted into a kunefe afterwards.
Kunefe is a pastry and cheese (mozzarella-like) dessert with pistachio and syrup. Big mistake. I felt full and lost my appetite until mid-afternoon next day.