Last bit of sightseeing

Lazy start

My priority for the day was to get my laundry done before flying out at 0435 tomorrow morning.  My hotel offers laundry through its posher sister-hotel next door and quoted AZN3 per shirt.  No way!  I looked online for laundromats and it would have cost AZN20 total to wash and dry.

Fortunately, I had worn some things over two days in the colder highlands and can wait till Budapest where laundromats are about half the price.

Having woke at nearly 0800 feeling full after last night’s dinner, I went out to get so yoghurt for my cereal around 0930.  Ayran (salted yoghurt drink) was around AZN0.45 but a sweet yoghurt drink was nearly double the price.  It was actually fine with my muesli!

Maiden Tower

Today I continue seeing the inside of sights that I have caught from the outside.  It was a smart move to do the Maiden Tower today when the weather was sunny.

I climbed up the stairs through the different levels, stopping at each one to see the different exhibits, eg. weapons, archaeological plans, holographic images of artefacts, ancient plumbing.  The exhibits made the climb quite painless even though it was humid and uncomfortable at each stop.  While the weather had cooled down outside, inadequate ventilation in the ancient tower traps the heat and humidity from previous days, I guess.

The top of the tower had a high glass barrier to prevent suicides and was guarded by a very bored security officer.

It was good to have another look at Baku’s panorama on a sunny morning before I fly off.  The weather clouded over soon after I went back down.

Thereafter, I took random walks around the old city.  Some of the old buildings have been Europeanised in the history of the city.  During the walking tour, it was explained that some basic buildings weren’t thought to be of heritage value.  Some were demolished so that more significant buildings could be exposed for public appreciation.

I had lunch back at the recommended working-men’s underground restaurant Xezer, where I knew the food would be good and pricing economical.

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Hammam

I spent the afternoon planning for my next chapter of travel in the Balkans.  For a change of scenery I went to the Aga Mikayil Hamami (hammam) a couple of minutes walk from my room.

As I only had enough cash for one entry (and dinner), I opted to just go in.  I badly in need of exfoliation but must have left my scrubbing mitten in Kuching.

The experience started with a shower and then the sauna.  A fellow customer came in and poured water on the element then squirted it with what looked like a bottle of homemade lemonade.  He then squirted it on himself and then on me.  It turned out to be mint.  I was tingling hot and cold and the hot steamy air smelt sharp as well.

By then, I had changed my mind and decided to also have an exfoliation and massage.  I realised that they accepted card payments here.  Surprisingly they asked if I wanted a female attendant to do the work but I declined.

The exfoliation was swift and the 30 min massage with soap was comfortable without being too strong.  But I do like it strong.  The best part was the repeated application of super-hot folded wet sheets to various parts of the body to relax the muscles.

I was directed back to the sauna to finish up.  The masseur came in with two bunches of leaves to beat me for an extra AZN10.  I declined.

The total experience is different from that in Istanbul:

• where the massage was harder and they try to break you with bends and twists. Here, it is more of a western massage but with soap.
• one keeps the wraparound on firmly but here, it is taken off and thrown over your privates or butt crack while the massage is in progress.
• where people sit on stools and wash themselves with a scoop, then lie on the marble table. But here, it’s a normal stand-up shower and a concrete sauna room with wooden seats.

The whole experience cost me AZN47, which was like a end-of-stay treat.  It was AZN10 for the entry, AZN1 for the towel, AZN15 for the exfoliation and AZN20 for the 30 min massage.

Evening

I returned to Xezer for dinner, treating myself to wine with my meal, followed by dessert.  I then finished up all my money at the supermarket on some snacks to bring along to the Balkans.

I completed my stay in Baku with one last walk in the night, enjoying all the city lights, especially from Flame Tower.  Surprisingly there were a few lights on and twinkling from the Crescent Moon building that’s still under construction.

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I returned to my room around 2045 for a rest and to ready myself for departure.  I had debated whether to take the metro/bus combo for “free” as my transport card had adequate balance.  With the last bus at 2300, I’d have to leave the hotel around 2215 to get on the metro.

Alternatively, I could order a car from the Bolt app at around 0100.  I could rest in bed till then, having paid for the whole night already.  It wouldn’t be expensive at around AZN11 for the 30 min ride.

In the end, I opted to take the metro/bus combo, since I didn’t want to risk sleeping.  I’d probably be better off at the airport with all the nice bright white lights.

The metro was busy with people including families bringing their kids out at this time of night!  And the roads were plenty busy too.  Fortunately, the metro to bus connection was much easier compared to when I had just arrived, since I knew where everything was now. I got to the bus 25 mins before departure and we departed on time, getting me to the airport at 2325.  That’s over 5h before my 0435 departure to Budapest!

I knew that my lounge access was only permitted for 2h so I didn’t bother going airside straight away.  Then I wondered whether Wizz Air did document checks at the gate for passengers with no checked-in luggage or whether this had to be done at a check-in counter.  Checking their website, it said that non-EU passport holders need to present themselves to the check-in counter to have their boarding passes stamped.  That settles it; I’d have to wait landside until they counters open.

Thoughts on travel in Azerbaijan

It’s a nice country and it’s quite easy to get around.  English is understood in Baku and but not so much in the small centres I visited.  It’s not like Central Asia where English is hardly understood.

In fact, I’d say the average person I encounter speaks more English than, say, in Turkiye.  But the difference is that in Turkiye, people in the tourism industry do speak English quite well.

As for the sights of the country, it’s good but not “Wow!” like in Uzbekistan.  I’m glad I’ve visited and experienced the country first hand. I enjoyed Baku, the sights of the surrouding areas (which are best done by a day tour) and the excursion to Khinalug. For those short of time, I’d recommend skipping Sheki and Lahich.