Koshkar Ata Necropolis
I’m in Aktau because I managed to get a cheap redemption ticket from here to Istanbul whereas flights from other Kazakh cities were pricey.
It seemed interesting enough with the Koshkar Ata necropolis which I will visit today. The country, especially this “corner” is dotted with many similar places but most are too far away from the cities on remote plains and mountains.
I ordered a Yandex car to take me there around 1000 when the cloudy weather had cleared. I entered through the gate around 1030 to see an area of small well-worn headstones with no legible inscriptions.
The path led me to a low fence which I was able to get across, to the more elaborately built areas of the necropolis. This area had a gorgeous skyline of miniatures domes and towers, somewhat like a fairy-tale city.
Unfortunately, looking at the headstones, most of this area isn’t too old and some are even contemporary. The necropolis comprises graves going back to the 9th Century along the ones of today. I’m guessing the area that I first saw upon entry would represent the oldest ones.
Somewhere, there’s supposed to be a carving of a ram (koshkar in Kazakh language) which gives the place its name. I didn’t realise this till after I left but I doubt I would have looked very hard for it as the weather had turned hot.
After 40 mins, I had had enough but thought it would be good to return to the oldest area for another look. Overall, I was a little disappointed to find that so much of the most picturesque area was contemporary.
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- Old part of the necropolis.
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- Old part of the necropolis.
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- Skyline of the newer part of the necropolis.
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- I need not apply for this job since I can’t even slice bread straight.
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- I need not apply for this job since I can’t even slice bread straight.
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- We’re nearly at the furthest point away from the sea but the rocks still have embedded sea shells.
Central Aktau
I tried ordering a car to take me to Aktau’s commercial centre area but none were available. A bus came past and a little later another one came and I decided to hop on. The conductor cheerfully accepted my Paywave card for the measly fare of NZD0.43.
Getting to station around 1230, I found a car to take me to the MiG fighter jet monument which led to the Caspian Sea area where there were some restaurants. It was all rather quiet so I’m guessing their main business is dinner. Some were pricier than what I was willing to shell out for lunch.
The sea was actually very blue, similar to when I saw it from Baku. Completely different from my first time, at Bandar Anzali in Iran, which was a working port. The colour of the water there put me off caviar for a while!
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- MiG monument.
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- Caspian Sea from Aktau.
I had run out of water and was desperately looking for a supermarket and a bite. After having no luck in one direction, I was lucky to find a doner bar and a supermarket all in one place.
After filling my tummy, I spent all my Kazakh money on water, fruit and some snacks to leave only one Tenge.
The outing had taken longer than I had thought and I got back to the airport hotel around 1500.
Luck on my side, finally
I spent the rest of the day at the hotel and managed to book my return back to New Zealand from Urumqi to Beijing to Auckland on Air China for only NZD578 (only NZD106 more than a standby fare via Shanghai).
That fare is what most airlines charge from Urumqi to Shanghai alone! I couldn’t believe that I finally had luck on my side.
I celebrated with a salad and sparkling water in the hotel restaurant before retiring for my early flight tomorrow morning.