Day 3: Khorog to Langar in Wakhan Valley

Nasty surprise

With such luxurious ensuite, of course, I slept through the night without needing it.  [Edit: in later parts of the trip, I go multiple through the nights when it is an outhouse!]

We had been given a leisurely departure of 0900 today.  Upon settling the bill, the Germans were presented with a nasty surprise.

While we paid USD50 for the room, they were charged USD80.  Ours was charged at USD25 per person in our large room, which we now understood to be a dorm.  On the other hand, the Germans were charged for a pricey double room for their double bed (with no other beds in the room).  It was a big price for them to pay to be together alone.  [Edit:  I later realised they weren’t even a couple!]

Khorog’s Afghan Market

It didn’t take long for us to hit a traffic jam as we left the hotel.  When we heard that the road had been closed for a bicycle rate and would reopen at 1230, our hearts sank.

Altynbek decided to take us to the Afghan market beyond the airport, in an area where Afghans could cross over to sell their wares.  Each trader had a numbered card around their neck, which I presumed was given in exchange for their national ID which they would collect back upon surrendering their cards.

While there were some carpets and light industrial goods, the bulk of goods were homeware and toiletries.  As for snacks being sold there, these were exclusively by Tajik women.

We spent an hour at the market before returning to join the queue for leaving town.  Altynbek bought us an ice-cream each as we stood in the shade of some poplar trees.

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Finally, hitting the road

A couple of hours later, around 1240, we finally got going!  We had joined the official Pamir Highway M41 last night at Khorog and once again, like we did on the first day, we will now depart from it to take the scenic route following the Panj River again.

We gain altitude and enter the Wakhan Corridor which separates the British and the Russian empires, meaning Pakistan vs Russian Central Asia.  The scenery as rugged and majestic, looking down at the ferocious rapids of the Panj River, occasional green valleys below and the rugged terrain of Afghanistan on the other side.

Definitely, the roads were better on our side of the river.  Cars were less common across the other side and more beaten up.

In the Wakhan Corridor, in an odd location that’s not following the Afghan border and Panj River.

Second Afghan market

Around 1515, we made a stop at another Afghan border market, this time located in an island in the Panj River.  We crossed a bridge to access the island and were told very clearly not to take photos at the market.

The island is split between the two countries, so we were now just a metre away from Afghanistan when we were by the fence.  I stealthily took a photo and was reminded by Altynbek not to.

Afghan border market located on an island in the Panj River.

Meeting others from another car at dinner, they hadn’t been told not to take photos and had started taking some.  They told us that they were soon surrounded by Afghans wanting selfies and wefies with them.  They reciprocated and ended up with many happy memories on camera.  I was very envious!

Fortresses

Around 1600, we stopped at the Qah Qaha Fortress.  Our stop was meant to be the Ishkashim Fortress, so I’m not sure if it was a different place.

Unlike the brand-new fortress on Day 1, this one was ruined nearly beyond recognition.  We did a little climb which offered us a pleasant view of the green valley.

With the delay of over 3h this morning, it wasn’t apparent to us if we would make it to the Bibi Fatima Zahra hot springs until we took a turn up the narrow windy road uphill.

We stopped at Yamchun Fortress en route around 1730.  This one was more intact and recognisable as a fortress.  It wasn’t accessible due to a steep area between the ruins and the road but we weren’t worried.

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Bibi Fatima Zahra hot springs

We parked near the springs around 1945, walked to it and was told to wait outside the building briefly.  After a period of not too much information, the three males amongst us went down the outdoor stairs anyway, and were shown into the bathing area.

Unfortunately, Sandra was asked to wait with no explanation which she found really frustrating.

Men and women have separate bathing area which supposedly swap round every hour.  Perhaps, they ask people to wait if their arrival coincides with an upcoming change-over.

Apparently, the men’s area which we used is like a room and the other one is like a cave.

The water is very hot as we entered but perfect soon after.  There were to streams of water coming down from the side/ceiling, with one very pleasantly hot and the other one tepid.

It wasn’t a big pool but with about ten people, there was still plenty of room for more.  There were not facilities to wash before entry but I knew the water was somewhat continuously running off and replenished.

Underwear or swimwear were not permitted.  Altynbek and Marco wore a cotton wrap but were told by others that they weren’t supposed to, but no effort was made to make them comply.

I had hidden my valuables in the car but I probably didn’t need to.  The pool and changing area were adjacent, separated by a pane of glass.

It was a very pleasant soak.  As Sandra had entered quite a bit later, we waited for her and hit the road once again around 2015.

Langar overnight

We reached our next homestay in Langar about an hour later.  We had rooms above the convenience store with a long table in the dining hall.  The staff spoke good English here.

At dinner, we were surprised that the other car didn’t manage to fit in the hot spring or the first Afghan market. [But they did take nice photos and wefies at the second market.]

With only cold water in the shower here, I was glad to feel clean from the hot spring as I settled into bed tonight at 2900m.