Imam Ali’s shrine by day
For a change, our Najaf hotel didn’t have breakfast available. We shared an instant noodle and I poured some coffee into my muesli to complete the deal.
It was around 0900 when we were ready to depart Najaf but had an hour till the hotel’s check-out time. E had wanted to go out to Imam Ali’s shrine again but was hesitant with his migraine.
He took a bit of convincing and that wasted valuable minutes, meaning that we got there just as they were putting up the sunshades, blocking my chance of getting a front-of view of the two golden minarets by daylight.
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- We got to Imam Ali’s shrine just as they were putting on the sunshades.
- I was unable to get a front-on view of the two golden minarets with the sunshades up.
- There are many sombre funeral scenes around Najaf (and Karbala).
Najaf to Karbala
We managed to get a cheap private taxi outside to take us to Karbala. I think he was based in Karbala and agreed to a good rate to get home. Overall, it was a little more than taking a taxi to the garage to commence a shared ride.
The taxi couldn’t navigate to our chosen hotel, the Hayat, as some areas are pedestrian-only with security checkpoints. We were dropped off around 1120 and made our way on foot to the hotel. The hotel didn’t disappoint! It was the nicest we’ve had so far!
Having not had a proper breakfast, we shared a pizza which unfortunately came with a base that was undercooked for both our liking. Then we treated ourselves to some Arabic sweets and ma’amoul.
E with his European looks and distinguished grey hair and beard is constantly mistaken as Iranian or sometimes Turkish.
Imam Abbas and Imam Hussein shrines
Two of the early Shia imams are enshrined here in Karbala, having been killed in the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. They are Imam Hussein and Imam Abbas, the former being the older of the two step-brothers.
We visited the Abbas shrine first as it was nearer to the hotel. Both shrines have been extensively renovated with the outdoor courtyard areas now enclosed. They are both stunning, especially in the proper shrine area.
I’ll let the photos do the talking. First up, this is the Imam Abbas shrine.
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- Karbala street scene.
- Exterior mosaic work at Imam Abbas shrine.
- Imam Abbas shrine.
- Imam Abbas shrine.
Next we have the photos from the Imam Hussein shrine.
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- The Bayn al-Haramayn connects the two shrines in the centre of Karbala.
- The Bayn al-Haramayn connects the two shrines in the centre of Karbala.
- One of the entrances to the Imam Hussein shrine.
- Wall of one of the entrances to the Imam Hussein shrine.
- Prayer area of Imam Hussein shrine.
- Imam Hussein shrine.
- Bakery on our walk back to the hotel.
Photography is not permitted in the prayer or shrine area but as locals were generally snapping away, I did steal a few shots myself. There were staff gently telling people not to, in the shrine area though.
E wasn’t pleased that I was breaking the rules. And when I reminded him that he had broken rules in various shapes and forms in the two years I’ve known him. I didn’t appreciate him taking the moral high ground and the double standard. With that, our great friendship appeared to take a little downward turn.
After a rest, E and came out for a pre-dinner walk. The temperature had taken a dive. With his migraine, he was feeling the chill and opted to return to the room. I revisited the two shrines again. The chandeliers inside the prayer areas of both were now on and added to the glitz. At my solo dinner, I was assigned an Afghan Hazara waiter because the boss thought we would speak the same language!
- The Bayn al-Haramayn connects the two shrines in the centre of Karbala.
- Imam Abbas shrine by night.
- With my Afghan Hazara waiter.