Flying to the Bird’s Head

It was an early flight departing at 0705 from Fak Fak to Sorong. I had made it to the airport by ojek. With a 0530 pick-up I was a wee bit nervous as to whether he would show up or not and it was only a small consolation having the driver’s number. There was a […]

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Flying to Fak Fak

I got driven to Nabire airport at 0545. When I got there at 0630 the counter was unattended as the staff were busy despatching the flight to Jayapura. After a short wait, check-in commenced manually. The flight to Fak Fak via Kaimana left slightly late and got me to my destination more or less on […]

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First world problems in whaleshark country

I woke at 0530 and grabbed breakfast at the hotel restaurant before heading to the airport. At 0700 the check-in for the 0815 flight hadn’t opened but I joined the queue anyway, and fortunately they switched from the previous flight to mine just as I got to the front. It was raining cats and dogs, […]

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Lake Sentani Cultural Festival

Today is the first day of the Lake Sentani Cultural Festival. I hadn’t planned on being here because the approximate dates in the guidebook didn’t quite fit in. But obviously there is some movement in the date year-to-year and I was lucky enough to be here for it. After breakfast, I led a group of […]

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Washed out in Jayapura

I left my “lovely” hotel by becak for Wamena’s shed of an airport at 0800. I went straight to the check-in counter as there was no queue. There was already a large crowd in the departure hall but I later realised it was holding passengers for two flights and their well-wishers. My flight wasn’t till […]

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Hike in the Baliem Valley

I had arranged with a reputable guide (who runs their association) for some assistance with today’s hike. He quoted IDR500K which is the high end of the rate in the book. As I wasn’t expecting it to be a full day, he offered me a lower end of the recommended rate at IDR400K. But he […]

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Frolicking with men in their birthday suits

Finally, my stamped permit I had a really bad night sleep. It could have been the MSG in the bakso (but it didn’t taste like it was laced with it), or it could have been altitude. Wamena is only 2000m high though, and I slept fine in Leh which was easily double the height. As […]

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Heart of the high country

Flying to Wamena Due to the 0400 wake-up yesterday I was stirring way before the 0600 alarm I had set for myself. I went down to the hotel’s restaurant for a breakfast of soto ayam (chicken soup with shredded chicken, lightly spiced) on rice (rather than noodles) topped with some veges. The Rasen hotel offers […]

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On to the Papuan mainland

It was raining heavily at 0400 when I woke in Biak. I had arranged for the hotel staff to take me to the airport by motorbike. It was wet; I had a raincoat as pillion and he didn’t. He would have been wetter. I was the only one at check-in. The agent there stood up […]

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Diving and day on the water

It’s not easy to find other people to dive with, in Biak.  I was lucky to be able to join a party of dive journalists and dive the fabulous Wundi Cave.  You can read about my day here where you’ll also find tips on trying to make a dive-trip happen. Packing that night, I thought I […]

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