Author archive
8 August 2024
What I’m not doing I’ve done most of the things I can do in Hotan. There were a couple that I decided against doing: Mazar of Imam Asim: This mausoleum lies out of town and Uyghurs used to pray here. More recent reports have suggested that the area is off-limits to foreigners. Yue Tu Gan […]
7 August 2024
Train to Hotan I took a taxi for Kargilik station at 0815 for my 0919 train to Hotan. At the security checkpoint for the station, they had trouble summoning a cop and I had to wait about 20 mins. When boarding came, I noticed they had trouble locating my train booking at the turnstiles. I […]
6 August 2024
Train to Kargilik After one night, I’m on the move by train again, this time to Kargilik (Yecheng). I left the hotel at 0715 by taxi for the 0819 train. This time it is only a 50 ride in the hard seat class. With locals observing a 2h unofficial time difference, this ride is bloody […]
5 August 2024
To Yarkant by train Today I do my first of five train trips that I’ve booked, the first of which is from Kashgar to Yarkant (Shache), a journey of 2h20 starting at 0950. I didn’t get to have the hotel breakfast with this early start, which is unofficially 0750 locally. In fact, it was the […]
4 August 2024
Animal market After a day of attending to online matters and cleaning my shoes yesterday, I have what might be the highlight of my Kashgar visit this morning. Being Sunday, I was keen to revisit the animal market to compare what might have changed since 1998. Coming along for the ride was Simon from Switzerland […]
2 August 2024
Kashgar’s recreated old city Breakfast was served at the hostel at 0930, which is 0730 on the unofficial local time. I headed out for a haircut and a walk back on the lively Azirete Rd where I got some fruit. A little after midday, I walked to the Kashgar’s old city, one of the oldest […]
1 August 2024
Long-awaited opportunity Today, I start the next chapter of my trip, undertaking independent travel once again from Sary Tash in Kyrgyzstan to Kashgar in Xinjiang, western China. Entering China’s Muslim west from its Muslim neighbours may have caused suspicion when applying for a visa. So, when visa-free travel was introduced late last year, I was […]
31 July 2024
Hike cut short Breakfast was meant to be at 0700 and we were supposed to depart at 0730 for our hike. But breakfast ran late and we weren’t ready to go till around 0800. Then some confusion set in. Some thought we were meant to be driven in the car to the start of the […]
30 July 2024
Border crossing Today, we cross the border from Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan at a crossing that’s closed to both nationalities but open to us foreigners, presumably to facilitate tourism. In fact, it was closed to all parties until more recent times. After breakfast at 0700, I settled my homestay bill and then proceeded to exchange my […]
29 July 2024
Above: Lake Karakol and the mountains in the background. Long break at Murghab We departed Alichur at 0900 headed towards Murghab, hometown of Altynbek, our driver. It is where we rejoin the M41 Pamir Highway, and also the largest town on the highway. The scenery had changed from desert to grassland in parts. And the […]