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Market day

Pasar Bolu The market in Bolu (near Rantepao) isn’t a weekly affair … but occurs every six days.  We were lucky to catch it despite our short stay of only three full days. In summary, people bring their buffaloes and pigs here so other people can come make their purchases: The buffalo section is essentially […]

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Cliff, cave, baby and boulder graves

Above:  The newly prepared grave took over 2 years to carve out manually. Cliff graves at Suaya We started the day visiting Suaya which had a cliff-face filled with effigies similar to yesterday’s at Lemo.  We learnt that the ones here are original whereas those at Lemo had been replaced after being pillaged. Text continues […]

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Insights into Toraja life

Above:  Cryptic signs showing the availability of dog meat. Driving through the towns and countryside our guide and pointed out shops which sold dog meat.  These are indicated rather discreetly by way of cryptic signs and codes, eg. “Ada” (meaning “Have” or “Available”) or red plastic bag hanging on a stick. I found the level […]

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A funeral and hanging graves

Background Tana Toraja (or Toraja Land)  is famous for the traditional burial ceremonies amongst its Christian population. When people die, they’re preserved (formerly using balsam but now with formalin) then kept at home for up to a few years while funds are accumulated for an elaborate ceremony or while relatives are brought together for the […]

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Long day on the bus to Toraja

Above:  Very spacious seating but the air-con wasn’t working properly. After a leisurely morning we departed Makassar on a bus journey to Rantepao.  The scheduled departure was 1300 and the supposed journey time 8 hours. After a small delay due to air-con failure and a few other mechanical problems we arrived 11h15 later … at […]

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Let’s sponsor a mass circumcision

Above: Photos found on internet showing Lionair crew playing with the crash axe. Today we flew Lionair (not Ryanair) from the somewhat Christian city of Manado to the more Muslim city of Makassar (or Ujung Pandang) arriving at the beautiful new Sultan Hasanuddin airport. Now for some amusing facts, factoids or urban myths about Lionair: […]

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Oh for a freshwater shower

After our two dives today, we transferred to Novotel Grand Kawanua on the mainland.  Kim’s work gets a large discount on its corporate plan … a beautiful room in a new gorgeous hotel with a big pool was NZD45 (about EUR22). It didn’t take long before we were in the rain shower washing off two […]

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Day 2: Bunaken

Above:  Going back through the mangroves after our dive. Today, we had two dives at Sachiko II which was another beautiful wall dive, much like yesterday with plenty of variety.  Second dive was the House Reef.  Even after Sipadan, I was excited to see turtles and barracudas. Sadly it was too early in our diving […]

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Day 1: Bunaken

We had two days of diving with Living Colours in Bunaken. Today we had two dives at Aluang Banua and Lekuan II. The dive sites were all beautiful walls with plenty of variety in the marine life. Most importantly the divemasters were very professional … they gave good pre-dive briefings and always emphasised that this […]

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Two days of diving

Above:  Church and village on Bunaken island. It was bright when I opened my eyes. I looked at my phone-clock and it said 0611. But twenty minutes after, my alarm hadn’t sounded. Upon checking, I had misread the clock and it was in fact only 0511. As Manado and Bunaken is in the eastern end […]

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