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Lake Sentani Cultural Festival

Today is the first day of the Lake Sentani Cultural Festival. I hadn’t planned on being here because the approximate dates in the guidebook didn’t quite fit in. But obviously there is some movement in the date year-to-year and I was lucky enough to be here for it. After breakfast, I led a group of […]

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Washed out in Jayapura

I left my “lovely” hotel by becak for Wamena’s shed of an airport at 0800. I went straight to the check-in counter as there was no queue. There was already a large crowd in the departure hall but I later realised it was holding passengers for two flights and their well-wishers. My flight wasn’t till […]

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Hike in the Baliem Valley

I had arranged with a reputable guide (who runs their association) for some assistance with today’s hike. He quoted IDR500K which is the high end of the rate in the book. As I wasn’t expecting it to be a full day, he offered me a lower end of the recommended rate at IDR400K. But he […]

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Frolicking with men in their birthday suits

Finally, my stamped permit I had a really bad night sleep. It could have been the MSG in the bakso (but it didn’t taste like it was laced with it), or it could have been altitude. Wamena is only 2000m high though, and I slept fine in Leh which was easily double the height. As […]

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Heart of the high country

Flying to Wamena Due to the 0400 wake-up yesterday I was stirring way before the 0600 alarm I had set for myself. I went down to the hotel’s restaurant for a breakfast of soto ayam (chicken soup with shredded chicken, lightly spiced) on rice (rather than noodles) topped with some veges. The Rasen hotel offers […]

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On to the Papuan mainland

It was raining heavily at 0400 when I woke in Biak. I had arranged for the hotel staff to take me to the airport by motorbike. It was wet; I had a raincoat as pillion and he didn’t. He would have been wetter. I was the only one at check-in. The agent there stood up […]

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Diving and day on the water

It’s not easy to find other people to dive with, in Biak.  I was lucky to be able to join a party of dive journalists and dive the fabulous Wundi Cave.  You can read about my day here where you’ll also find tips on trying to make a dive-trip happen. Packing that night, I thought I […]

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Wundi Cave

If you’re a solo traveller in Biak and wish to dive, you’ll have to be very lucky or very rich. Try to come with some friends otherwise will cost you! There aren’t many travellers or divers around so if you don’t team up with them, you’ll end up shelling a bomb for a private trip. […]

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A little bit of war history

I woke early again. After breakfast, I headed to the Police Station to drop off the photos for my travel permit. The lady said the permit was more or less done and was just pending the photos and I could come collect it in an hour. I hopped on a ojek (motorcycle taxi) to Gua […]

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Colourful Papuan birds

Having retired last night at 2030 (and also slept till midday yesterday), I was surprised to wake around 0600. Especially when my body was on NZ time (3h difference). I expected to feel really alert and raring to go, which is usually the case when I travel west. No, I felt sluggish. After breakfast, I […]

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