South-East Asia

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Frolicking with men in their birthday suits

Finally, my stamped permit I had a really bad night sleep. It could have been the MSG in the bakso (but it didn’t taste like it was laced with it), or it could have been altitude. Wamena is only 2000m high though, and I slept fine in Leh which was easily double the height. As […]

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Heart of the high country

Flying to Wamena Due to the 0400 wake-up yesterday I was stirring way before the 0600 alarm I had set for myself. I went down to the hotel’s restaurant for a breakfast of soto ayam (chicken soup with shredded chicken, lightly spiced) on rice (rather than noodles) topped with some veges. The Rasen hotel offers […]

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On to the Papuan mainland

It was raining heavily at 0400 when I woke in Biak. I had arranged for the hotel staff to take me to the airport by motorbike. It was wet; I had a raincoat as pillion and he didn’t. He would have been wetter. I was the only one at check-in. The agent there stood up […]

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Diving and day on the water

It’s not easy to find other people to dive with, in Biak.  I was lucky to be able to join a party of dive journalists and dive the fabulous Wundi Cave.  You can read about my day here where you’ll also find tips on trying to make a dive-trip happen. Packing that night, I thought I […]

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Wundi Cave

If you’re a solo traveller in Biak and wish to dive, you’ll have to be very lucky or very rich. Try to come with some friends otherwise will cost you! There aren’t many travellers or divers around so if you don’t team up with them, you’ll end up shelling a bomb for a private trip. […]

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A little bit of war history

I woke early again. After breakfast, I headed to the Police Station to drop off the photos for my travel permit. The lady said the permit was more or less done and was just pending the photos and I could come collect it in an hour. I hopped on a ojek (motorcycle taxi) to Gua […]

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Colourful Papuan birds

Having retired last night at 2030 (and also slept till midday yesterday), I was surprised to wake around 0600. Especially when my body was on NZ time (3h difference). I expected to feel really alert and raring to go, which is usually the case when I travel west. No, I felt sluggish. After breakfast, I […]

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Introduction to Papua by way of Biak

It was an ungodly departure of 0115 from Makassar. The 2h45 flight to Biak (off the northern coast of Papua) took off slightly late and landed again just slightly late too. The actual flying time was less and with the hot meal and a snooze we landed in no time (well about 0500 actually). On […]

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Long transit in Makassar

Killing a day in Bali I woke around 0600 in Bali and headed out for a morning walk soon after 0700 around Kuta. Balinese tend to wake early but that doesn’t hold true in partytown Kuta. It was dead. There were some people on the beach and a couple of people surfing. The Balinese surf […]

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Bali nightstop

Luggage at Bali’s Ngurah Rai airport took forever. I took a taxi to the Tune Hotel in Kuta which I had booked for NZD17 (including aircon and towel options). Being central, clean and comfy, it was exactly what I needed for the night. It was straight to bed as it was about 3am in Auckland […]

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