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Disembarking the Felucca

I woke around 0700 again and was offered a slightly better breakfast today as Ahmad was onboard. Today I had an omelette as well as bread, jam, cheese and tea. Ziggy told me that there had been a slight change in plan. Rather than drop me near Edfu where I’d have to take a car […]

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Daraw’s Camel Market & Kom Ombo Temple

We tied up around 0200 near Daraw. When I woke around 0700, I was offered a simple breakfast after which I took a tutuk to the camel market. This is a Sat/Sun event (it isn’t too clear) but there was certainly a fullhouse of camels and camel traders on this Sun morning. Planning is essential […]

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Starting my Felucca Journey

I had breakfast with Erich and Ulla. We were going our separate ways today; their Land Cruiser had arrived and will be ready for use today. I picked their brains on various parts of Africa. They talked about Chad and how they had seen some canyons with water there; I thought for a moment that […]

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Daytrip to Abu Simbel

I woke at 0230 for a 0300 pickup for Abu Simbel. Before we left Aswan, we went through a checkpoint where the vehicles were inspected by mirror underneath. It was a 3h+ ride from Aswan and I dozed part of the way. We didn’t travel in a strict convoy in a manner that was prescribe […]

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Aswan’s West Bank

I joined Erich and Ulla today to explore Aswan’s west bank. Our planned activities required a private felucca journey in one direction so it made sense to do it together. We started off in town and found a felucca for EGP50 to take us over to the west bank, getting off underneath the Aga Khan’s […]

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Arriving in Egypt at Aswan

Above: On the ferry after a sleepless night. Another sleepless night I rose in the wee hours of the night and wandered around. There were people sleeping everywhere, both inside on the floors, and on the open deck. I went to the restaurant. The atmosphere there, like the rest of the boat was very friendly. […]

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Leaving Sudan from Wadi Halfa

Above: On the top deck; prayer time at sunset. Photo courtesy of Vincent Gelot. Sleepless Night There was plenty of snoring through the night, sharing a dorm with mature men. Cellphones kept going off too! It got really cold; I had three layers on my upper body, a rain coat and also longjohns under my […]

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Last Stop in Sudan

Without breakfast, I took a tuktuk to Dongola’s station hoping to get a bus to Wadi Halfa. There were only minibuses and I didn’t fancy being squashed so opted to pay for an extra seat. I did keep the extra seat until close to the end of the trip when they picked up some extra […]

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Chilling or Killing Time

I decided I needed a day “off” from travelling around. I had woken up around 0300 again from the cold even though I was more warmly dressed. I couldn’t sleep for a few hours then must have nodded off and woke again at 0930. I must have needed the sleep. I had thought of going […]

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Daytrip to Jebel Barkal in Karima

It wasn’t a surprise that I’d feel cold in the wee hours of the morning. After all, it was cool yesterday when I arrived at 1100 yesterday. I woke to put on an extra top and longjohns. I had good intentions of getting going early to Karima, 2 hours away by van. It didn’t happen […]

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